Ulla Restaurant Victoria BC Canada

By Kristen Smith

VICTORIA, B.C. — Ulla restaurant recently underwent renovation and reopened its doors as OLO in time for Victoria’s Dine Around & Stay in Town.
Chefs and co-owners Brad Holmes and Kris Barnholden timed the opening to coincide with the Feb. 20 to March 12 event encouraging people to try new restaurants.

After the birth of their child, Holmes and Tamarin brought on Barnholden, their friend and colleague, for the 40-seat new venture.

OLO’s focus is on meals created from the bounty of Vancouver Island. The menu includes a selection of snacks such as Ireland Farms crispy chicken lettuce and items under the headings of: vegetables and grains, seafood and meat. “It’s a combination of comfort foods and refined dishes, ” said Holmes. He added they didn’t want to stray too far from what people liked about ulla and alienate those guests, and the refined dishes are what the chefs do well.

“We also like to eat comforty things and that’s why there are a couple pastas and a burger on the menu, but then there are also things that are a little more composed and interesting, ” said Holmes.

“We feel it’s the best two ways to highlight local ingredients and to have a restaurant that’s not special occasion only. It can be. You can come have a five-course menu out of it or you could have a burger and beer at the bar, ” said Holmes, noting if it’s more casual, it can be more of a community hub.

“We’re trying to encourage social eating. So get a big steak in the centre of the table and share it, get the carrots, get the mushrooms, ” he said. “It’s more fun, it’s more traditional, I think. That’s how you eat at home, right?”

Shawn Soole, who was most recently part of the opening team for Victoria’s Little Jumbo, came on board for the new project and is heading up the bar program. Also highlighting the region, the extensive list includes local distilleries, breweries and wineries.

The cocktail list uses foraged botanicals, house-made vinegars and tonics.

The word “olo” translates to “hungry” in Chinook Jargon, a derivative language of English, French, Chinese and Chinook. OLO celebrates the role of Cascadia (the Pacifc Northwest) as a cultural melting pot by serving as a hub for neighbours to gather and break bread.

Barnholden made many of the design choices, which Holmes describes as a modern and airy farmhouse look.

Half old and half new, they exposed brick, changed tiling and changed some furniture in the 1, 000-square-foot space.

“We kept some of the really nice organic things we purchased over the years. We bought nice wooden chairs and we had hand-designed woven lights, ” said Holmes.